The recent controversy surrounding Italian luxury label Prada has reignited the debate on how global fashion giants engage with India—a country with centuries-old artistic traditions that often remain underappreciated and underprotected.
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Prada’s Kolhapuri Controversy
In June, Prada showcased a sandal in Milan that looked strikingly similar to the Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted leather shoe with deep roots in Indian culture. The iconic footwear, named after the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, has been made for generations by skilled artisans. Yet Prada’s collection failed to acknowledge its Indian origins.
The omission sparked backlash, forcing Prada to issue a statement recognizing the sandals’ heritage and expressing openness to a “meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans.” Following the criticism, Prada representatives met Kolhapuri craftsmen and industry leaders in Maharashtra. The brand even hinted at potential future collaborations—an unusual step for a global fashion powerhouse accused of cultural borrowing without credit.
While the outcome of this engagement remains uncertain, the controversy highlighted a larger issue: the fashion industry’s tendency to adopt South Asian designs without attribution.
Fashion’s Repeated Cultural Blind Spots
Prada is far from alone. Luxury and fast-fashion labels alike have faced criticism for overlooking the cultural origins of their designs.
Earlier this year, H&M and Reformation came under fire when their spring collections featured outfits resembling South Asian garments. While H&M denied the allegations, Reformation admitted its inspiration came from a model’s personal wardrobe.
In Paris, Dior’s highly anticipated collection sparked debate when it showcased a gold-and-ivory coat using mukaish embroidery, a centuries-old technique from northern India, without any mention of its roots.
These examples reveal a recurring pattern: global fashion borrows from Indian craft but fails to provide credit, compensation, or visibility to the communities that keep these traditions alive.
The Debate: Inspiration or Exploitation?
Some fashion insiders argue that drawing inspiration from global traditions is natural—designers constantly borrow from different aesthetics. In today’s fast-paced industry, they say, brands often don’t have the time to consider cultural implications deeply.
But critics insist the issue isn’t inspiration—it’s erasure. Borrowing becomes problematic when luxury houses repackage traditional crafts as high-fashion statements, often selling them for exorbitant prices, without even naming the culture that shaped them.
Shefalee Vasudev, editor-in-chief of Voice of Fashion, calls it a matter of design responsibility. “Giving due credit is taught in design school. Not doing so is cultural neglect towards the very communities brands claim to admire,” she explains.
India: A Market Luxury Cannot Ignore
The controversy is not just about ethics—it also underscores how brands perceive India as a market.
According to the Boston Consulting Group, India’s luxury retail market is projected to nearly double to $14 billion by 2032, driven by a growing affluent middle class. Yet many luxury houses remain hesitant to invest fully.
Consultant Arvind Singhal notes that luxury labels still see India as insignificant compared to markets like China. “Prada means little to most Indians. There is demand among the super-rich, but not enough to build a thriving business,” he says.
Delhi-based designer Anand Bhushan agrees. India has long been a production hub, supplying embroidery and craftsmanship for the world’s biggest labels. But when these same designs are rebranded and sold back to Indians at a premium, it exposes the imbalance of recognition and value.
A History of Missteps
The frustration with global brands did not start with Prada. One of the most remembered controversies dates back to 2011, when Karl Lagerfeld presented Chanel’s “Paris-Bombay Métiers d’Art” collection. The runway featured sari-inspired gowns, Nehru jackets, and ornate headpieces. While some hailed it as cultural homage, others criticized it as cliché-driven and shallow in its representation of India.
Such incidents reflect a larger blind spot: the absence of diverse voices within fashion’s leadership. Nonita Kalra, editor-in-chief of Tata CliQ Luxury, stresses that Western fashion houses are still dominated by homogenous teams who often lack the perspective to represent global cultures authentically. “The lack of diversity is the industry’s biggest weakness. Brands must bring in talent from across the world if they truly want to connect,” she says.
A Missed Opportunity for Collaboration
Despite repeated criticism, brands rarely translate their interest in Indian craft into meaningful collaborations. When they do, the impact can be powerful—both culturally and commercially.
Prada’s outreach to Kolhapuri artisans offers a rare glimpse of what respectful engagement could look like. If followed through, such collaborations can help Indian crafts gain international recognition while giving artisans fair compensation and visibility.
But for this to happen consistently, Indian artisans also need institutional protection. Currently, most traditional crafts lack intellectual property safeguards, making it easy for global brands to replicate designs without consequence.
The Indian Paradox: Undervaluing Our Own Heritage
Experts also point out that India’s problem is two-fold: while foreign designers exploit local crafts, Indians themselves often fail to value their heritage.
Laila Tyabji, chairperson of Dastkar, highlights the irony: “We bargain endlessly over handmade embroidered juthis but pay ten times more for factory-made sneakers. As long as we undervalue our own artisans, others will continue to do the same.”
Weavers and craftsmen invest weeks or even months in creating masterpieces, yet many work in precarious conditions with low pay. Without national pride, consumer support, and legal frameworks, their crafts remain vulnerable to exploitation.
Towards Respect and Recognition
The ongoing debate around cultural appropriation may not have clear answers, but it has sparked necessary conversations about respect, credit, and collaboration. Prada’s controversy has shown that accountability is possible when consumers and critics demand it.
For global brands, India is no longer just a production hub—it is an emerging consumer base with rising cultural confidence. Ignoring this reality risks alienating an audience that increasingly demands authenticity.
For India, the challenge is to champion its own heritage, empower artisans, and create frameworks that protect traditional knowledge. Only then can cultural exchange move beyond appropriation to true collaboration.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Why did Prada face backlash in India?
Prada faced criticism after showcasing sandals resembling the traditional Kolhapuri chappal without crediting their Indian origins. Many saw this as cultural appropriation and disregard for Indian artisans.
What is the Kolhapuri chappal?
The Kolhapuri chappal is a handcrafted leather sandal made in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, for centuries. It is known for durability, intricate craftsmanship, and cultural heritage.
Did Prada acknowledge the controversy?
Yes. Prada issued a statement recognizing the sandals’ Indian roots and later met with artisans and trade groups in Kolhapur, hinting at possible future collaborations.
Why do global fashion brands often misrepresent Indian culture?
Many luxury brands borrow from Indian crafts without context or credit due to lack of cultural awareness, homogenous leadership teams, and a focus on fast-paced design cycles.
How big is India’s luxury fashion market?
India’s luxury retail market is projected to nearly double to $14 billion by 2032, driven by a rising middle class and growing aspirations among younger consumers.
Why don’t luxury brands see India as a key market?
Despite growth potential, most luxury brands believe India has limited high-end demand compared to markets like China. As a result, they treat India more as a production hub than a consumer destination.
What other global brands have faced cultural appropriation charges in India?
Brands like H&M, Reformation, and Dior have all faced criticism for borrowing from South Asian crafts and styles without acknowledging their roots.
Conclusion
Prada’s Kolhapuri sandal controversy is more than just a fashion faux pas—it reflects the wider disconnect between global luxury houses and India’s cultural and consumer landscape. For too long, international brands have drawn from Indian artistry without acknowledgment, while undervaluing India as a luxury market. Yet, with a rapidly expanding middle class and deep-rooted craft traditions, India represents both a market of immense potential and a cultural heritage worth honoring. True progress lies in collaboration, not appropriation. When brands give artisans visibility, fair compensation, and rightful credit, they don’t just protect heritage—they build authenticity and long-term trust. For India, the challenge is to champion its own crafts, protect them legally, and nurture consumer pride.
